Your Questions Answered

Most single rooms are sanded and finished in one to two days. Larger areas, repairs or extra coats add time, and we set out a clear schedule with your fixed quote.

Very little. Our dust-free sanding systems capture around 99% of dust at source, so there is almost nothing to clean afterwards. We also protect doorways and skirting before we start.

We visit for free, look at the floor and give you a fixed written quote. There are no surprises on the day, unless you ask us to add extra work. You can book a survey online in a couple of minutes.

We are fully insured with £5m public liability cover. We can send certificates on request, which facilities managers and landlords often need before work starts.

Every floor restoration is covered by our 3-month service guarantee. If something is not right with our workmanship during those three months, we come back and put it right. Gap filling is excluded, because wooden floors move with the seasons — see our service guarantee for the details.

Not at all. We work room by room, and nearly all our clients stay at home throughout. Our water-based lacquers and low-VOC oils have very little odour, so day-to-day life carries on.

You can usually walk on the floor in socks after a few hours. Furniture can go back after 24–48 hours, and rugs after about a week while the finish fully cures.

Our team works across Harrow and the neighbouring towns and villages. Not sure if you are covered?, send us a message — we can usually help for larger jobs.

Parquet runs in several directions, so we sand it in stages at different angles. Finishing with a planetary or buffing machine removes swirl marks and leaves an even surface ready for oil or lacquer.

Many older parquet floors were laid on bitumen adhesive. It is not a problem for sanding, but loose blocks need cleaning back and re-fixing with a compatible adhesive. We check this during the survey and include it in the quote.

Smaller gaps are filled with resin mixed with fine sanding dust, so the colour matches. Larger gaps are best filled with tapered pine slivers, glued and planed flush. Our gap filling guide compares the two.

Our 3-month guarantee does not cover gap filling. Wooden floors expand and shrink with the seasons and with movement in the building, which can open small cracks in the filler. We use the most suitable method for your floor to keep this to a minimum.

It usually makes a real difference. Gaps between floorboards let draughts rise from under the floor. Filling them makes rooms cosier and stops dirt collecting between boards.

Yes. After sanding we apply test patches on your timber so you can see how each shade looks in the room before we commit. Find out more about our staining service.

Every timber takes stain differently. A colour that looks warm on a card can turn out much darker on pine, so testing on your own boards is the only reliable way to choose.

Yes — we strip paint and old varnish from treads, risers and spindles. Stairs are sanded mostly by hand, and we finish them with a hard-wearing lacquer or oil. See stairs stripping and restoration.

Usually, yes. We finish alternate treads so you can still get up and down, then complete the rest the following day. We agree the plan with you before we start.

Most staircases take two to three days from stripping to final coat. Lots of paint layers or turned balusters can add a day, which we include in your quote.

We regularly work during holidays, evenings and weekends. Large halls are often completed within a week, so disruption is kept to a minimum.

Yes. After sanding we apply sports-grade lacquer and can repaint court markings for badminton, netball and other games between coats so they are sealed in. Read more about our school floor restoration.

We provide risk assessments, method statements and insurance details before work begins. Our team is used to working on occupied sites with strict safety rules.

We can work evenings, nights and weekends so the office stays open. Our dust-free machines and water-based lacquers mean staff can be back at their desks quickly.

Yes — we restore halls, churches and community spaces, often around services and bookings. We take care with historic timber and choose finishes suited to busy halls. See churches and community halls.

Prices depend on the floor area, condition, repairs needed and the finish you choose. Our price list shows typical starting prices, and the free survey gives you a fixed written quote.

For many jobs, yes. Photos of the floor plus rough measurements let us give a guide price quickly. We confirm it with a short visit before work starts, so the final quote is fixed.

Hardwax oil gives a natural, matt look and can be refreshed in patches. Water-based lacquer sits on top as a hard-wearing film that copes well with spills and busy households. We recommend the right one at the survey — or read our guide to oil and lacquer.

They are. We use low-VOC oils and water-based lacquers that are safe for families and pets once cured. We suggest keeping pets out of the room for the first 24 hours, and trim claws to help the finish last.

Oiled floors normally get two coats, and lacquered floors three. Busy hallways and commercial floors can have an extra coat for added protection.

In most cases, yes — as long as the top wear layer is 3 mm or more. We check the wear layer during the free survey, often by lifting a threshold strip or a floor vent. Our engineered floor guide explains more.

A solid wood floor can be sanded many times over its life. Each sand removes only a fraction of a millimetre when done properly, which is why period floors are still going strong after a century.

Almost always. We re-glue loose blocks, replace missing ones with matched or reclaimed timber, then sand and finish the whole floor so the repairs disappear. Find out more about parquet floor repairs.

Yes — original boards often hide beautiful timber under old paint and varnish. We knock down protruding nails, replace split boards and sand back to fresh timber. Read our guide to Victorian floorboards for what to expect.

Empty the room where possible and take down curtains that reach the floor. We can help move heavy furniture if we know in advance. Our preparation checklist has more tips.

A normal plug socket and parking close by is all we need. Our machines run on domestic power, and we bring all tools, materials and dust sheets.

In most cases, yes. We deep clean, sand and treat the boards with a UV-resistant decking oil that restores the warm timber tone and makes it safer underfoot. See our decking restoration service.

We work on decking from spring to early autumn. The timber needs a few dry days so the oil can soak in properly. Our decking guide explains how to prepare.

Once a year is a good rule of thumb. South-facing decks in full sun may need it sooner. A yearly coat keeps the timber protected.

We swap out damaged boards and re-fix loose ones as part of the job. Replacement boards are matched as closely as possible once the whole deck is oiled.

We source matching new or reclaimed timber of the same species and width. Once the floor is sanded and finished, repairs blend in. Learn more about wood floor repairs.

Squeaks usually come from loose boards rubbing against nails or joists. We screw loose boards down into the joists and fix any loose noggins below. Read about causes and fixes.

Often, yes. Light marks often sand away, while cupped or blackened boards are replaced and blended in. The floor must be fully dry first, so we take moisture readings before starting.

If the finish is worn but the wood is not damaged, a maintenance coat is often enough. It takes a fraction of the time of a full sand and keeps the floor protected. See re-oiling.

Most homes re-oil high-traffic rooms every 12–24 months. Bedrooms often last several years. Our maintenance guide helps you judge.

Yes — as long as the wear has not reached the bare wood. We screen the surface, clean it and apply a new coat of lacquer, restoring the sheen without a full sand.

Use a soft brush or vacuum, then a barely damp mop with a wood floor soap. Avoid steam mops and bleach or multi-surface sprays. Read our care guide for a simple routine.